To the end of a Continent: In Patagonia

Please note:

• We make every effort to keep to our plans, but we also remain flexible so we can adjust to unexpected problems and pleasant surprises as they arise.
• All meals are included in the trip cost except for two lunches and four dinners, as indicated with (B L D)
• Any underlined text below can be clicked to open a webpage.

We make every effort to keep to our plans, but we also remain flexible so we can adjust to unexpected problems and take full advantage of opportunities as they arise.

Day 1: Arrive Punta Arenas

The most convenient way to arrive in Punta Arenas is from Santiago. You should book the morning flight: SCL-PUQ, with Sky Airline #H2 401. Our Patagonian guide, Cem or I, will meet you at the airport and take you to Hotel La Yegua Loca, a thirty-minute drive. I will try to arrange an early check-in (usually at 14:00). Lunch today is on your own. We gather at 5 pm for drinks, an orientation meeting, and an early dinner at our hotel. (D)

Day 2: Monte Fenton hike, city tour

We take it easy this morning to help you recover from jet lag; we meet mid-morning. From our hotel, it’s a short drive to the trailhead for an easy 2.5-hour 3-mile out-and-back hike with a total ascent of 600’ to the viewpoint on Monte Fenton in the Reserva Nacional Magallanes. The trail climbs through classic subantarctic beech forest—stands of lenga, coihue, and ñirre twisted by wind and weather—where the quiet understory and birdlife give a strong sense of Patagonia’s wild character.

We return to town for a late lunch at the Mercado Restaurant. This afternoon, we will explore the city on foot, visiting its plazas, museums, and historic homes. We’ll also walk up to Mirador La Cruz for panoramic views over the Strait of Magellan and the city. Dinner tonight is on your own, either in town or at our hotel. We can make some suggestions. We spend another night at Hotel La Yegua Loca. (B L)

Day 3: Hike up Mount Tarn

Our destination for today is the top of Mount Tarn (2707′). This is a full-day excursion that takes about eight hours, including a forty-five-minute drive each way to the trailhead, rest stops, and a picnic lunch. The hike is seven miles out and back with a total ascent of 2,900’. There are options to turn around as you wish. All along the trail, there are wide open views of the Strait of Magellan and Dawson Island. The route to the summit is steep in a few places, but it is not considered difficult.

Mt Tarn is named after the surgeon and plant collector John Tarn, who served on both the HMS Adventure (with Robert Fitzroy) and the HMS Beagle (with Charles Darwin). John Tarn was the first person to ascend the mountain in 1827. Charles Darwin also climbed Mt. Tarn, and it is here on this mountain that he discovered the first ammonites (a kind of fossil) ever found in South America. Keep your eyes peeled for these beautiful round fossils! The view from Mt Tarn is spectacular; notable features include the Dawson and Tierra de la Fuego Islands, the Darwin Mountain Range, and much of the Brunswick Peninsula.

Dinner tonight can be at a restaurant of your choosing in town or at our hotel (B L)

Day 4: Motor through the Strait of Magellan to Carlos III Island

We board the 63’ icebreaker, the Estoa, and travel through the heart of the Strait of Magellan toward a scientific research encampment on Carlos III Island, located within the Francisco Coloane Marine Conservation Park. The Estoa is well-suited for this passage, with a viewing platform that allows us to keep watch for whales, dolphins, and other marine life along the way. Conditions in the Strait are often dynamic—strong winds are a defining feature of this part of Patagonia, but of course, our ship, with her exceptional crew, is very seaworthy for this full-day journey of approximately eight hours.  

About two hours after departing from the port, we reach the southernmost tip of mainland South America, Cape Froward. Named by the English navigator Thomas Cavendish in January 1587, “Froward” reflects the conditions he encountered here—meaning hostile, unmanageable, or inhospitable—an apt description of this wild and exposed coastline.

In the late afternoon, we motor into the well-protected bay that will serve as our expedition campsite. We sleep in spacious dome tents, on futons, and there is a comfortable dining and gathering hall. To protect the fragile flora, elevated boardwalks connect all structures. A skilled Chilean chef prepares tasty food.

Each day, our guide Cem—along with visiting scientists based at the camp—will give talks on the local ecology, geology, and ongoing research. The camp primarily functions as a field base for scientific work conducted by professors and graduate students from universities across South America, while also hosting a small number of adventure travelers whose visits help support ongoing research and operational costs in this remote region.

We spend four nights at the Expedition Camp on Carlos III. (B L D)

Days 5 – 7: Kayaking at Francisco Coloane Marine Conservation Park

We have three full days to explore this remote and untouched region. The Francisco Coloane Marine Conservation Park was established in July 2003 after marine biologists discovered that this area is the prime feeding ground for southern humpback whales. Here at the heart of the marine park, lies a biological corridor where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans converge, forming an ideal habitat for a variety of sea life. The focal point is Carlos III Island, surrounded by three major channels and five fjord systems. Other animals also come here to breed, including large colonies of sea lions, Magallanic penguins, and cormorants. Orca whales, minke whales, fur seals, and a variety of dolphins are also found in this area. The park is named in honor of Chilean poet Francisco Coloane, whose writing celebrates the Southern Ocean and its landscapes.

Over the course of our three days, we combine sea kayaking with short hikes to explore different parts of this remote coastline. One day may take us into Seno Ballena, or Helado Sound, paddling among glaciers and waterfalls, while another might include a paddle to Indean Pass followed by a short cross-isthmus hike. We may also hike across Carlos III Island to a remote bay, where we launch kayaks and continue along the coast. At times, we use a RIB to reach farther areas and look for marine mammals offshore. Each day offers a different mix of paddling and walking, shaped by weather, tides, and conditions. (B L D)

Day 8: Carlos III Island to Punta Arenas

This morning, we depart Carlos III Island, leaving behind the researchers and our exceptional support crew. We then begin the long return journey by boat, arriving at Puerto del Hambre in the late afternoon. From there, we travel back to Punta Arenas by van, where we can get cleaned up after our time in the field and settle back in at Hotel La Yegua Loca. Dinner tonight is at our hotel. (B L D)

Day 9: To Puerto Natales

We drive by van for three hours through a rolling landscape, pass sprawling sheep and cattle ranches, and arrive in Puerto Natales. The town is located beside Señoret Channel, and explorers seeking a way to the Pacific Ocean came through here in the late 1500s, and later the HMS Beagle passed through here (with Charles Darwin on board). This town has a certain warmth with quiet streets, colorful shops, and residential homes. 

Our hotel, the Noi Indigo Patagonia, is conveniently located downtown and adjacent to the waterfront, with lovely views north to Torres del Paine National Park. You are on your own for lunch today, and we can recommend some excellent spots within walking distance of the hotel. Afterward, visit the Frigorífico Puerto Bories Museum, which traces the history of Chile’s remarkable sheep-farming industry.

Late this afternoon, we will have a briefing on our upcoming adventures, and you’ll have time to consider what to pack for our upcoming three-day hike in Torres del Paine National Park. (B D)

Day 10: Cueva del Milodón Mtn biking, enter Torres del Paine National Park

Thirty minutes north of Puerto Natales, Cueva del Milodón Natural Monument opens into a vast cave system famed for the discovery of remarkably preserved remains of an extinct giant ground sloth. We spend about forty-five minutes exploring the main cavern and learning about its history and geology.

After gearing up on mountain bikes, we set off, riding first directly through two additional caves before rolling onto scenic gravel roads punctuated by fun stretches of easy singletrack. A relaxed lunch picnic breaks up the ride, after which we continue along quiet gravel paths through more striking Patagonian landscapes.

At the end of our ride, we drive north into Torres del Paine National Park and check in at Hotel Lago Grey, beautifully set along the Serrano River with sweeping views of the water and the Paine Massif beyond. (B L D)

Day 11: Motor across Lago Grey – Grey Mountain Refugio

• From Lago Grey, we set out on a four-day trek along the front of the Torres Massif. We spend four nights in refugios, where all meals—including packed lunches—are provided. Because three of the hiking days are out-and-back, you’ll only need to carry your overnight gear for one day, yeah! 

This morning, we board the ship Grey III for a 1.5-hour cruise across this magical lake. The captain is sure to navigate us alongside the glacier’s impressive front edge and close to translucent blue icebergs. There are stunning views of Paine Grande and Paine Massif peaks. 

After disembarking, we leave our overnight gear at the Grey Mountain Refugio and spend the rest of the day exploring the surrounding area. We take in the stunning nearby landscapes with recommended activities that include kayaking up close to the Grey Glacier (an optional paid excursion), taking an easy four-mile out-and-back hike (820’ total ascent) that crosses some dramatic (but safe!) suspension bridges to the Gauardas viewpoint for some dramatic glacier views. If you’re feeling more energetic, continue north on a scenic trail to Campamento Paso, which adds another 4 miles and 1,000’ out and back.

Day 12: Hike to Lago Pehoé

A relaxed start this morning leaves time to enjoy more of the refugio before setting out.  Today is the day when we carry our overnight gear. (For an extra cost, it is possible to hire a porter.) Today’s 6.5-mile hike and a 950’ total ascent that unfolds over roughly 5+ hours, including many stops and a picnic lunch, and finishes at Paine Grande Refugio on the shores of beautiful Lago Pehoé. Along the way, the trail winds through distinctive coigüe and ñirre forests and passes the cascading Río Oigües waterfall, with ever-expanding views of the surrounding landscape.  (B L D)

Day 13: Hiking French Valley – Lago Pehoé – Salto Grande Waterfall

A full day is devoted to hiking into French Valley, one of the park’s most dramatic landscapes, with many options to choose from. We can split the group for shorter and longer options, but the main route is an out-and-back hike. Most hikers choose to round-trip hike for 11 miles, ascending 1,000’, to the Glacier Frances viewpoint. The trail climbs into a natural amphitheater framed by sheer granite walls and hanging glaciers, with avalanches occasionally rumbling off the peaks above. Along the way, views open to the jagged spires of Los Cuernos and the glacier-clad heights of Paine Grande. A picnic lunch is enjoyed amid this sweeping alpine scenery. Also, early-rising, keen hikers can continue further up the valley to other, even more spectacular viewpoints. 

After returning to Lago Pehoé refugio, we gather our overnight gear and board a motorized catamaran for the crossing of Lago Pehoé, taking in expansive views of Paine Grande, Los Cuernos, and Almirante Nieto rising above the turquoise water. Landing at Pudeto pier, a short walk leads to the powerful Salto Grande Waterfall, where churning cascades fill the foreground, and the black-topped peaks of the Cuernos form a striking backdrop. From here, a scenic one-hour drive brings us to Las Torres Patagonia Hotel, our home for two nights.  (B L D)

Day 14: Trek to Valle del Silencio and LosTorres del Paine

Today’s hike is among the most iconic in Torres del Paine National Park, culminating in the Valle del Silencio, a world-renowned view of the three granite towers rising above Lago Torres at their base. It’s a somewhat demanding day, but not technical, and the payoff is a close-up encounter with the dramatic spires that define the park.

The full outing covers 12 miles and ascends 3,100’ out and back.  It typically takes around eight hours to complete, including breaks. Shorter hiking options with views are also available. The route begins at Las Torres Patagonia Hotel and follows a varied trail of gentle stretches and sustained climbs, with a few steeper sections along the way.

Early on, the trail crosses open landscapes before entering beautiful stands of southern beech forest. A side path leads to an easier viewpoint at Morena Acarreo, but continuing onward brings greater rewards. The route follows the river valley toward Campamento Japonés, where the climb steepens as it ascends a rugged moraine. 

For the final (optional), three-quarters of a mile, the trail steepens, and careful footing is needed as it traverses over granite boulders of various sizes, eventually reaching the secluded Valle del Silencio—an intimate and unforgettable vantage point beneath the towers.

The return follows the same trail back to the hotel, where a well-earned dinner caps the day.  (B L D)

Day 15:  Estancia Cerro Guido

Departing from Las Torres Patagonia Hotel, the journey continues to Estancia Cerro Guido, a traditional working ranch set on the Patagonian steppe with impressive views of the park. Here, the group divides into two: one sets out on a horseback ride across open country, while the other joins a guided visit of the estancia to learn about the baqueano way of life. After lunch, the groups switch, allowing everyone to experience both activities.

Later in the afternoon, the route heads toward the Argentine border, arriving at Estancia El Pionero for the night—another authentic estancia offering a glimpse into life on the Patagonian frontier. (B L D)

Day 16: El Calafate

From Estancia El Pionero, it’s a 6+ hour drive over the Patagonian steppes, crossing over the border into Argentina, stopping for lunch on route, and ending in the town of El Chalten. It’s a striking drive across the vast steppe, with frequent opportunities to spot wildlife such as guanacos, rheas, foxes, and a variety of steppe birds, including condors, along the way.

El Chaltén is the gateway to the northern part of Glacier National Park. Our hotel offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding valleys, lakes, and the famous Monte Fitz Roy (3,568m/11,703’), also known as Cerro Chaltén. The Patagonia icecap covers an impressive 40% of this park’s surface, and there are 47 glaciers!

We spend the late afternoon exploring the town before unwinding at the beautiful Los Cerros del Chaltén Hotel.

Day 17—18: Hiking Monte Fitz Roy – Glacier National Park

We meet our Argentinian guide, who will join us for the next two days of hiking. A short drive from our hotel, there are three classic hiking options (plus others not mentioned here), and each day, weather dependent, our guides choose the best one. Pack lunches are provided by our hotel. 

• The hike to Cerro Torre is an eleven-mile, seven-plus-hour trek along the Mirador Del Torre trail to Laguna Torre. Although we gain 2,400′ in elevation, the trail is a steady but gentle climb. It begins with a short uphill section and then reaches the first viewpoint of the valley. (For an easier option, one could turn around here.) From here, we continue up the valley to Laguna Torre, an even more spectacular viewpoint. The lake features the Torre Glacier calving on the far side, with the dramatic Cerro Torre group and its spires rising in the background. The entire Cerro Torre is visible from here. The needle-like spires of Cerro Torre are one of the world’s most famous big wall climbs.
• There are two options for great views of Fitz Roy. The first is a 3.5-mile, 3+ hour round-trip hike. The elevation gain is 900’. and the trail climbs gently beside the slopes of Cerro Rosado peak and along the Chorrillo del Salto valley, with beautiful mountain streams and carpets of wildflowers. At the end, we reach Laguna Capri, a beautiful lake in the forest with full views of the Fitz Roy spires and glaciers.
• For keen hikers, it is possible to continue from Laguna Capri for another 3+ hours to Rio Blanco and Laguna de Los Tres. This is where the trail ends for hikers and serves as the base camp for mountaineers. Round trip, this hike is 12 miles and takes 8+ hours, with an elevation gain of 3800′. Doing this challenging hike is a wonderful way to bring our time in Patagonia to a rewarding end—with one last great achievement! And, of course, the close-up view of the spires and glaciers from here is breathtaking as our first big hike to view the Torres del Paine.

Day 19: Depart home

A late morning departure from El Chaltén at 10:30 begins the 3.5-hour drive to Comandante Armando Tola International Airport (FTE). Here, it’s time to say goodbye to Cem—no longer just a guide, but a friend!

Lunch is on your own at the airport, with time to grab something before your flight. Be sure to book this flight: FTE–AEP, 14:40–17:35 on Aerolíneas Argentinas Flight 1861 (not included in the tour cost).

Upon arrival at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport, some travelers will connect with evening international flights home, while others continue into the city for a Buenos Aires tour and possibly onward to Iguazú Falls. A remarkable Patagonian journey comes to a close. 

Cerro Torre, viewed from the Rio Fitz Roy Valley, Argentina